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“In the meantime, sadly, things have changed, not always for the better,” acknowledges Van Godtsenhoven, “but at that time [in 2019], it was more a celebratory feeling, a more centennial spirit.” The idea of lineage, or a through line across history, is the backbone of the show, Huber says during a preview, ”whether it’s in relation to the collection or our own departmental history, whether it’s broader social histories, whether it’s the history of the fashion industry itself or the trajectories of the individual designers.” That idea is introduced even before one enters the galleries
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